Blog

Check out the recent Redfin article we were featured in:

Most people don’t know how easy it is to make their homes run on less energy, and here at InterNACHI, we want to change that. Drastic reductions in heating, cooling and electricity costs can be accomplished through very simple changes, most of which homeowners can do themselves. Of course, for homeowners who want to take advantage of the most up-to-date knowledge and systems in home energy efficiency, InterNACHI energy auditors can perform in-depth testing to find the best energy solutions for your particular home. Why make your home more energy efficient? Here are a few good reasons: Federal, state, utility and local jurisdictions' financial incentives, such as tax breaks, are very advantageous for homeowners in most parts of the U.S. It saves money. It costs less to power a home that has been converted to be more energy-efficient. It increases the comfort level indoors. It reduces our impact on climate change. Many scientists now believe that excessive energy consumption contributes significantly to global warming. It reduces pollution. Conventional power production introduces pollutants that find their way into the air, soil and water supplies. 1. Find better ways to heat and cool your house. As much as half of the energy used in homes goes toward heating and cooling. The following are a few ways that energy bills can be reduced through adjustments to the heating and cooling systems: Install a ceiling fan. Ceiling fans can be used in place of air conditioners, which require a large amount of energy. Periodically replace air filters in air conditioners and heaters. Set thermostats to an appropriate temperature. Specifically, they should be turned down at night and when no one is home. In most homes, about 2% of the heating bill will be saved for each degree that the thermostat is lowered for at least eight hours each day. Turning down the thermostat from 75° F to 70° F, for example, saves about 10% on heating costs. Install a programmable thermostat. A programmable thermostat saves money by allowing heating and cooling appliances to be automatically turned down during times that no one is home and at night. Programmable thermostats contain no mercury and, in some climate zones, can save up to $150 per year in energy costs. Install a wood stove or a pellet stove. These are more efficient sources of heat than furnaces. At night, curtains drawn over windows will better insulate the room. Image of a high-efficiency thermostat at the InterNACHI® House of Horrors® in Colorado. 2. Install a tankless water heater. Demand-type water heaters (tankless or instantaneous) provide hot water only as it is needed. They don't produce the standby energy losses associated with traditional storage water heaters, which will save on energy costs. Tankless water heaters heat water directly without the use of a storage tank. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. A gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, demand water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don't need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water. 3. Replace incandescent lights. The average household dedicates 11% of its energy budget to lighting. Traditional incandescent lights convert approximately only 10% of the energy they consume into light, while the rest becomes heat. The use of new lighting technologies, such as light-emitting diodes (LEDs) and compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), can reduce the energy use required by lighting by 50% to 75%. Advances in lighting controls offer further energy savings by reducing the amount of time that lights are on but not being used. Here are some facts about CFLs and LEDs: CFLs use 75% less energy and last about 10 times longer than traditional incandescent bulbs. LEDs last even longer than CFLs and consume less energy. LEDs have no moving parts and, unlike CFLs, they contain no mercury. 4. Seal and insulate your home. Sealing and insulating your home is one of the most cost-effective ways to make a home more comfortable and energy-efficient, and you can do it yourself. A tightly sealed home can improve comfort and indoor air quality while reducing utility bills. An InterNACHI energy auditor can assess leakage in the building envelope and recommend fixes that will dramatically increase comfort and energy savings. The following are some common places where leakage may occur: electrical receptacles/outlets; mail slots; around pipes and wires; wall- or window-mounted air conditioners; attic hatches; fireplace dampers; inadequate weatherstripping around doors; baseboards; window frames; and switch plates. Because hot air rises, air leaks are most likely to occur in the attic. Homeowners can perform a variety of repairs and maintenance to their attics that save them money on cooling and heating, such as: Plug the large holes. Locations in the attic where leakage is most likely to be the greatest are where walls meet the attic floor, behind and under attic knee walls, and in dropped-ceiling areas. Seal the small holes. You can easily do this by looking for areas where the insulation is darkened. Darkened insulation is a result of dusty interior air being filtered by insulation before leaking through small holes in the building envelope. In cold weather, you may see frosty areas in the insulation caused by warm, moist air condensing and then freezing as it hits the cold attic air. In warmer weather, you’ll find water staining in these same areas. Use expanding foam or caulk to seal the openings around plumbing vent pipes and electrical wires. Cover the areas with insulation after the caulk is dry. Seal up the attic access panel with weatherstripping. You can cut a piece of fiberglass or rigid foamboard insulation in the same size as the attic hatch and glue it to the back of the attic access panel. If you have pull-down attic stairs or an attic door, these should be sealed in a similar manner. 5. Install efficient showerheads and toilets. The following systems can be installed to conserve water usage in homes: low-flow showerheads. They are available in different flow rates, and some have a pause button which shuts off the water while the bather lathers up; low-flow toilets. Toilets consume 30% to 40% of the total water used in homes, making them the biggest water users. Replacing an older 3.5-gallon toilet with a modern, low-flow 1.6-gallon toilet can reduce usage an average of 2 gallons-per-flush (GPF), saving 12,000 gallons of water per year. Low-flow toilets usually have "1.6 GPF" marked on the bowl behind the seat or inside the tank; vacuum-assist toilets. This type of toilet has a vacuum chamber that uses a siphon action to suck air from the trap beneath the bowl, allowing it to quickly fill with water to clear waste. Vacuum-assist toilets are relatively quiet; and dual-flush toilets. Dual-flush toilets have been used in Europe and Australia for years and are now gaining in popularity in the U.S. Dual-flush toilets let you choose between a 1-gallon (or less) flush for liquid waste, and a 1.6-gallon flush for solid waste. Dual-flush 1.6-GPF toilets reduce water consumption by an additional 30%. 6. Use appliances and electronics responsibly. Appliances and electronics account for about 20% of household energy bills in a typical U.S. home. The following are tips that will reduce the required energy of electronics and appliances: Refrigerators and freezers should not be located near the stove, dishwasher or heat vents, or exposed to direct sunlight. Exposure to warm areas will force them to use more energy to remain cool. Computers should be shut off when not in use. If unattended computers must be left on, their monitors should be shut off. According to some studies, computers account for approximately 3% of all energy consumption in the United States. Use efficient ENERGY STAR-rated appliances and electronics. These devices, approved by the U.S. Department of Energy and the Environmental Protection Agency’s ENERGY STAR Program, include TVs, home theater systems, DVD players, CD players, receivers, speakers, and more. According to the EPA, if just 10% of homes used energy-efficient appliances, it would reduce carbon emissions by the equivalent of 1.7 million acres of trees. Chargers, such as those used for laptops and cell phones, consume energy when they are plugged in. When they are not connected to electronics, chargers should be unplugged. Laptop computers consume considerably less electricity than desktop computers. 7. Install daylighting as an alternative to electrical lighting. Daylighting is the practice of using natural light to illuminate the home's interior. It can be achieved using the following approaches: skylights. It’s important that they be double-pane or they may not be cost-effective. Flashing skylights correctly is key to avoiding leaks; light shelves. Light shelves are passive devices designed to bounce light deep into a building. They may be interior or exterior. Light shelves can introduce light into a space up to 2½ times the distance from the floor to the top of the window, and advanced light shelves may introduce four times that amount; clerestory windows. Clerestory windows are short, wide windows set high on the wall. Protected from the summer sun by the roof overhang, they allow winter sun to shine through for natural lighting and warmth; and light tubes. Light tubes use a special lens designed to amplify low-level light and reduce light intensity from the midday sun. Sunlight is channeled through a tube coated with a highly reflective material, and then enters the living space through a diffuser designed to distribute light evenly. 8. Insulate windows and doors. About one-third of the home's total heat loss usually occurs through windows and doors. The following are ways to reduce energy lost through windows and doors: Seal all window edges and cracks with rope caulk. This is the cheapest and simplest option. Windows can be weatherstripped with a special lining that is inserted between the window and the frame. For doors, apply weatherstripping around the whole perimeter to ensure a tight seal when they're closed. Install quality door sweeps on the bottom of the doors, if they aren't already in place. Install storm windows at windows with only single panes. A removable glass frame can be installed over an existing window. If existing windows have rotted or damaged wood, cracked glass, missing putty, poorly fitting sashes, or locks that don't work, they should be repaired or replaced. 9. Cook smart. An enormous amount of energy is wasted while cooking. The following recommendations and statistics illustrate less wasteful ways of cooking: Convection ovens are more efficient that conventional ovens. They use fans to force hot air to circulate more evenly, thereby allowing food to be cooked at a lower temperature. Convection ovens use approximately 20% less electricity than conventional ovens. Microwave ovens consume approximately 80% less energy than conventional ovens. Pans should be placed on the matching size heating element or flame. Using lids on pots and pans will heat food more quickly than cooking in uncovered pots and pans. Pressure cookers reduce cooking time dramatically. When using conventional ovens, food should be placed on the top rack. The top rack is hotter and will cook food faster. 10. Change the way you do laundry. Do not use the medium setting on your washer. Wait until you have a full load of clothes, as the medium setting saves less than half of the water and energy used for a full load. Avoid using high-temperature settings when clothes are not very soiled. Water that is 140° F uses far more energy than 103° F for the warm-water setting, but 140° F isn’t that much more effective for getting clothes clean. Clean the lint trap every time before you use the dryer. Not only is excess lint a fire hazard, but it will prolong the amount of time required for your clothes to dry. If possible, air-dry your clothes on lines and racks. Spin-dry or wring clothes out before putting them into a dryer. Homeowners who take the initiative to make these changes usually discover that the energy savings are more than worth the effort. InterNACHI home inspectors can make this process much easier because they can perform a more comprehensive assessment of energy-savings potential than the average homeowner can. 01/30/2023 - Resource: InterNACHI. Permission Granted by InterNACHI - https://www.nachi.org/

The following items are essential tools, but this list is by no means exhaustive. Feel free to ask an InterNACHI inspector during your next inspection about other tools that you might find useful. 1. Plunger A clogged sink or toilet is one of the most inconvenient household problems that you will face. With a plunger on hand, however, you can usually remedy these plumbing issues relatively quickly. It is best to have two plungers -- one for the sink and one for the toilet. 2. Combination Wrench Set One end of a combination wrench set is open and the other end is a closed loop. Nuts and bolts are manufactured in standard and metric sizes, and because both varieties are widely used, you’ll need both sets of wrenches. For the most control and leverage, always pull the wrench toward you, instead of pushing on it. Also, avoid over-tightening. 3. Slip-Joint Pliers Use slip-joint pliers to grab hold of a nail, a nut, a bolt, and much more. These types of pliers are versatile because of the jaws, which feature both flat and curved areas for gripping many types of objects. There is also a built-in slip-joint, which allows the user to quickly adjust the jaw size to suit most tasks. 4. Adjustable Wrench Adjustable wrenches are somewhat awkward to use and can damage a bolt or nut if they are not handled properly. However, adjustable wrenches are ideal for situations where you need two wrenches of the same size. Screw the jaws all the way closed to avoid damaging the bolt or nut. 5. Caulking Gun Caulking is the process of sealing up cracks and gaps in various structures and certain types of piping. Caulking can provide noise mitigation and thermal insulation, and control water penetration. Caulk should be applied only to areas that are clean and dry. 6. Flashlight None of the tools in this list is of any use if you cannot visually inspect the situation. The problem, and solution, are apparent only with a good flashlight. A traditional two-battery flashlight is usually sufficient, as larger flashlights may be too unwieldy. 7. Tape Measure Measuring house projects requires a tape measure -- not a ruler or a yardstick. Tape measures come in many lengths, although 25 feet is best. Measure everything at least twice to ensure accuracy. 8. Hacksaw A hacksaw is useful for cutting metal objects, such as pipes, bolts and brackets. Hacksaws look thin and flimsy, but they’ll easily cut through even the hardest of metals. Blades are replaceable, so focus your purchase on a quality hacksaw frame. 9. Torpedo Level Only a level can be used to determine if something, such as a shelf, appliance or picture, is correctly oriented. The torpedo-style level is unique because it not only shows when an object is perfectly horizontal or vertical, but it also has a gauge that shows when an object is at a 45-degree angle. The bubble in the viewfinder must be exactly in the middle -- not merely close. 10. Safety Glasses / Goggles For all tasks involving a hammer or a power tool, you should always wear safety glasses or goggles. They should also be worn while you mix chemicals. 11. Claw Hammer A good hammer is one of the most important tools you can own. Use it to drive and remove nails, to pry wood loose from the house, and in combination with other tools. They come in a variety of sizes, although a 16-ounce hammer is the best all-purpose choice. 12. Screwdriver Set It is best to have four screwdrivers: a small and large version of both a flathead and a Phillips-head screwdriver. Electrical screwdrivers are sometimes convenient, but they're no substitute. Manual screwdrivers can reach into more places and they are less likely to damage the screw. 13. Wire Cutters Wire cutters are pliers designed to cut wires and small nails. The side-cutting style (unlike the stronger end-cutting style) is handy, but not strong enough to cut small nails. 14. Respirator / Safety Mask While paints and other coatings are now manufactured to be less toxic (and lead-free) than in previous decades, most still contain dangerous chemicals, which is why you should wear a mask to avoid accidentally inhaling. A mask should also be worn when working in dusty and dirty environments. Disposable masks usually come in packs of 10 and should be thrown away after use. Full and half-face respirators can be used to prevent the inhalation of very fine particles that ordinary facemasks will not stop. 15. Duct Tape This tape is extremely strong and adaptable. Originally, it was widely used to make temporary repairs to many types of military equipment. Today, it’s one of the key items specified for home emergency kits because it is water-resistant and extremely sticky. 01/30/2023 - Resource: InterNACHI. Permission Granted by InterNACHI - https://www.nachi.org/

Water Damage Concerns Basements are typically the area of a structure most at risk for water damage because they are located below grade and surrounded by soil. Soil releases water it has absorbed during rain or when snow melts, and the water can end up in the basement through leaks or cracks. Water can even migrate through solid concrete walls via capillary action, which is a phenomenon whereby liquid spontaneously rises in a narrow space, such as a thin tube, or via porous materials. Wet basements can cause problems that include peeling paint, toxic mold contamination, building rot, foundation collapse, and termite damage. Even interior air quality can be affected if naturally occurring gasses released by the soil are being transmitted into the basement. Properly waterproofing a basement will lessen the risk of damage caused by moisture or water. Homeowners will want to be aware of what they can do to keep their basements dry and safe from damage. Inspectors can also benefit from being aware of these basic strategies for preventing leaks and floods. Prevent water entry by diverting it away from the foundation. Preventing water from entering the basement by ensuring it is diverted away from the foundation is of primary concern. Poor roof drainage and surface runoff due to gutter defects and improper site grading may be the most common causes of wet basements. Addressing these issues will go a long way toward ensuring that water does not penetrate the basement. Here are some measures to divert water away from the foundation: Install and maintain gutters and downspouts so that they route all rainwater and snow melt far enough away from the foundation of the building to ensure that pooling does not occur near the walls of the structure. At least 10 feet from the building is best, and at the point where water leaves the downspout, it should be able to flow freely away from the foundation instead of back toward it, and should not be collecting in pools. The finish grade should be sloped away from the building for 10 to 15 feet. Low spots that may lead to water pooling should be evened out to prevent the possibility of standing water near the foundation. Shallow ditches called swales should be used in conditions where one or more sides of the building face an upward slope. A swale should slope away from the building for 10 to 15 feet, at which point it can empty into another swale that directs water around to the downhill-side of the building, leading it away from the foundation. Repair all cracks and holes. If leaks or seepage is occurring in the basement's interior, water and moisture are most likely entering through small cracks or holes. The cracks or holes could be the result of several things. Poor workmanship during the original build may be making itself apparent in the form of cracks or holes. Water pressure from the outside may be building up, forcing water through walls. The house may have settled, causing cracks in the floor or walls. Repairing all cracks and small holes will help prevent leaks and floods. Here are some steps to take if you suspect that water is entering the basement through cracks or holes: Identify areas where water may be entering through cracks or holes by checking for moisture, leaking or discoloration. Every square inch of the basement should be examined, especially in cases where leaking or flooding has not been obvious, but moisture buildup is readily apparent. A mixture of epoxy and latex cement can be used to fill small hairline cracks and holes. This is a waterproof formula that can help ensure that moisture and water do not penetrate basement walls. It is effective primarily for very small cracks and holes. Any cracks larger than about 1/8-inch should be filled with mortar made from one part cement and two parts fine sand, with just enough water to make a fairly stiff mortar. It should be pressed firmly into all parts of the larger cracks and holes to be sure that no air bubbles or pockets remain. As long as water is not being forced through basement walls due to outside pressure, the application of mortar with a standard trowel will be sufficient if special care is taken to fill all cracks completely. If water is being forced through by outside pressure, a slightly different method of patching with mortar can be used. Surface areas of walls or floors with cracks should first be chiseled out a bit at the mouth of the crack and all along its length. Using a chipping chisel and hammer or a cold chisel, cut a dovetail groove along the mouth of each crack to be filled, and then apply the mortar thoroughly. The dovetail groove, once filled, should be strong enough to resist the force of pressure that was pushing water through the crack. Apply sodium-silicate sealant to the walls and floor. Once all runoff has been thoroughly diverted away from the foundation, and all cracks and holes have been repaired and no leaking is occurring, a waterproof sealant can be applied as a final measure. Sodium silicate is a water-based mixture that will actually penetrate the substrate by up to 4 inches. Concrete, concrete block and masonry have lime as a natural component of their composition, which reacts with the sodium silicate to produce a solid, crystalline structure which fills in all the microscopic cracks, holes and pores of the substrate. No water vapor or gas will be able penetrate via capillary action because the concrete and masonry have now become harder and denser from the sodium silicate. Here are some steps and tips for its application: Special care should be taken when applying sodium silicate. It is an alkaline substance and, as such, can burn skin and eyes if it comes into contact with them. Inhalation can also cause irritation to the respiratory tract. Sodium silicate must be applied only to bare concrete, concrete block or masonry that has been cleaned thoroughly and is free of any dirt, oil, adhesives, paint and grease. This will ensure that it penetrates the substrate properly and fills in all microscopic cracks. It can be applied using a garden sprayer, roller or brush to a surface that has first been lightly dampened with a mop or brush. Apply two to three coats to the concrete, waiting 10 to 20 minutes between each application. Concrete block and masonry will take three to four coats, with the same 10 to 20 minutes between applications. Any excess should then be wiped away. Sodium silicate should not be over-applied or it will not be completely absorbed by the substrate, leaving a white residue. Paint can then be applied without fear of water vapor getting trapped between the paint and the wall, which could eventually cause blistering and peeling. Adhesives for tile or floor covering can also be used more effectively, once the substrate has been sealed. Diverting water away from foundations so that it does not collect outside basement walls and floors is a key element in preventing flooding and water damage. Ensuring that any water that does end up near basement exteriors cannot enter through holes or cracks is also important, and sealing with a waterproof compound will help prevent water vapor or gas from penetrating, as well. By following these procedures, the risk of water-related issues in basement interiors can be greatly reduced, protecting the building from damage such as foundation rotting, mold growth, and peeling paint, as well as improving the interior air quality by blocking the transmission of gasses from the soil outside. Resource: InterNACHI. Permission granted by InterNACHI - Water Damage Concerns Basements are typically the area of a structure most at risk for water damage because they are located below grade and surrounded by soil. Soil releases water it has absorbed during rain or when snow melts, and the water can end up in the basement through leaks or cracks. Water can even migrate through solid concrete walls via capillary action, which is a phenomenon whereby liquid spontaneously rises in a narrow space, such as a thin tube, or via porous materials. Wet basements can cause problems that include peeling paint, toxic mold contamination, building rot, foundation collapse, and termite damage. Even interior air quality can be affected if naturally occurring gasses released by the soil are being transmitted into the basement. Properly waterproofing a basement will lessen the risk of damage caused by moisture or water. Homeowners will want to be aware of what they can do to keep their basements dry and safe from damage. Inspectors can also benefit from being aware of these basic strategies for preventing leaks and floods. Prevent water entry by diverting it away from the foundation. Preventing water from entering the basement by ensuring it is diverted away from the foundation is of primary concern. Poor roof drainage and surface runoff due to gutter defects and improper site grading may be the most common causes of wet basements. Addressing these issues will go a long way toward ensuring that water does not penetrate the basement. Here are some measures to divert water away from the foundation: Install and maintain gutters and downspouts so that they route all rainwater and snow melt far enough away from the foundation of the building to ensure that pooling does not occur near the walls of the structure. At least 10 feet from the building is best, and at the point where water leaves the downspout, it should be able to flow freely away from the foundation instead of back toward it, and should not be collecting in pools. The finish grade should be sloped away from the building for 10 to 15 feet. Low spots that may lead to water pooling should be evened out to prevent the possibility of standing water near the foundation. Shallow ditches called swales should be used in conditions where one or more sides of the building face an upward slope. A swale should slope away from the building for 10 to 15 feet, at which point it can empty into another swale that directs water around to the downhill-side of the building, leading it away from the foundation. Repair all cracks and holes. If leaks or seepage is occurring in the basement's interior, water and moisture are most likely entering through small cracks or holes. The cracks or holes could be the result of several things. Poor workmanship during the original build may be making itself apparent in the form of cracks or holes. Water pressure from the outside may be building up, forcing water through walls. The house may have settled, causing cracks in the floor or walls. Repairing all cracks and small holes will help prevent leaks and floods. Here are some steps to take if you suspect that water is entering the basement through cracks or holes: Identify areas where water may be entering through cracks or holes by checking for moisture, leaking or discoloration. Every square inch of the basement should be examined, especially in cases where leaking or flooding has not been obvious, but moisture buildup is readily apparent. A mixture of epoxy and latex cement can be used to fill small hairline cracks and holes. This is a waterproof formula that can help ensure that moisture and water do not penetrate basement walls. It is effective primarily for very small cracks and holes. Any cracks larger than about 1/8-inch should be filled with mortar made from one part cement and two parts fine sand, with just enough water to make a fairly stiff mortar. It should be pressed firmly into all parts of the larger cracks and holes to be sure that no air bubbles or pockets remain. As long as water is not being forced through basement walls due to outside pressure, the application of mortar with a standard trowel will be sufficient if special care is taken to fill all cracks completely. If water is being forced through by outside pressure, a slightly different method of patching with mortar can be used. Surface areas of walls or floors with cracks should first be chiseled out a bit at the mouth of the crack and all along its length. Using a chipping chisel and hammer or a cold chisel, cut a dovetail groove along the mouth of each crack to be filled, and then apply the mortar thoroughly. The dovetail groove, once filled, should be strong enough to resist the force of pressure that was pushing water through the crack. Apply sodium-silicate sealant to the walls and floor. Once all runoff has been thoroughly diverted away from the foundation, and all cracks and holes have been repaired and no leaking is occurring, a waterproof sealant can be applied as a final measure. Sodium silicate is a water-based mixture that will actually penetrate the substrate by up to 4 inches. Concrete, concrete block and masonry have lime as a natural component of their composition, which reacts with the sodium silicate to produce a solid, crystalline structure which fills in all the microscopic cracks, holes and pores of the substrate. No water vapor or gas will be able penetrate via capillary action because the concrete and masonry have now become harder and denser from the sodium silicate. Here are some steps and tips for its application: Special care should be taken when applying sodium silicate. It is an alkaline substance and, as such, can burn skin and eyes if it comes into contact with them. Inhalation can also cause irritation to the respiratory tract. Sodium silicate must be applied only to bare concrete, concrete block or masonry that has been cleaned thoroughly and is free of any dirt, oil, adhesives, paint and grease. This will ensure that it penetrates the substrate properly and fills in all microscopic cracks. It can be applied using a garden sprayer, roller or brush to a surface that has first been lightly dampened with a mop or brush. Apply two to three coats to the concrete, waiting 10 to 20 minutes between each application. Concrete block and masonry will take three to four coats, with the same 10 to 20 minutes between applications. Any excess should then be wiped away. Sodium silicate should not be over-applied or it will not be completely absorbed by the substrate, leaving a white residue. Paint can then be applied without fear of water vapor getting trapped between the paint and the wall, which could eventually cause blistering and peeling. Adhesives for tile or floor covering can also be used more effectively, once the substrate has been sealed. Diverting water away from foundations so that it does not collect outside basement walls and floors is a key element in preventing flooding and water damage. Ensuring that any water that does end up near basement exteriors cannot enter through holes or cracks is also important, and sealing with a waterproof compound will help prevent water vapor or gas from penetrating, as well. By following these procedures, the risk of water-related issues in basement interiors can be greatly reduced, protecting the building from damage such as foundation rotting, mold growth, and peeling paint, as well as improving the interior air quality by blocking the transmission of gasses from the soil outside. 01/30/2023 Resource: InterNACHI. Permission granted by Nachi.org https://www.nachi.org

The purpose of this article is twofold. First, at InterNACHI, we’d like you to take measures to keep your garage free from fire. Fortunately, there are ways this can be done, some of which are described below. Secondly, garage fires do happen, and we’d like you to make sure that a fire cannot not easily spread to the rest of your house. While you can perform many of the recommendations in this article yourself, it is a good idea to hire an InterNACHI inspector to make sure your home is safe from a garage fire. Why do many garages pose a fire hazard? Where are you most likely to do any welding, or any work on your car? These activities require working with all sorts of flammable materials. Water heaters and boilers are usually stored in garages, and they can create sparks that may ignite fumes or fluids. Car batteries, too, will spark under certain conditions. Oil and gasoline can drip from cars. These fluids may collect unnoticed and eventually ignite, given the proper conditions. Flammable liquids, such as gasoline, motor oil and paint are commonly stored in garages. Some other examples are brake fluid, varnish, paint thinner and lighter fluid. The following tips can help prevent garage fires and their spread: If the garage allows access to the attic, make sure a hatch covers this access. The walls and ceiling should be fire-rated. Unfortunately, it will be difficult for untrained homeowners to tell if their walls are Type X fire-rated gypsum. An InterNACHI inspector can examine the walls and ceiling to make sure they are adequate fire barriers. The floor should be clear of clutter. Loose papers, matches, oily rags, and other potentially flammable items are extremely dangerous if they are strewn about the garage floor. Use light bulbs with the proper wattage, and do not overload electrical outlets. Tape down all cords and wires so they are not twisted or accidentally yanked. If there is a door that connects the garage to the living area, consider the following: Do not install a pet door in the door! Flames can more easily spread into the living area through a pet door, especially if it’s made of plastic. Does the door have a window? An InterNACHI inspector can inspect the window to tell if it's fire-rated. The door should be self-closing. While it may be inconvenient, especially while carrying groceries into the house from the car, doors should be self-closing. You never know when a fire will happen, and it would be unfortunate to accidentally leave the door open while a fire is starting in the garage. Check the joints and open spaces around the door. Are they tightly sealed? Any openings at all can allow dangerous fumes, such as carbon monoxide or gasoline vapor, to enter the living area. An InterNACHI inspector can recommend ways to seal the door so that fumes cannot enter the living area. Concerning items placed on the floor, you should check for the following: Store your flammable liquids in clearly labeled, self-closing containers, and only in small amounts. Keep them away from heaters, appliances, pilot lights and other sources of heat or flame. Never store propane tanks indoors. If they catch fire, they can explode. Propane tanks are sturdy enough to be stored outdoors. In summary, there are plenty of things that you can do to prevent garage fires from spreading to the rest of the house, or to keep them from starting in the first place. However, it is highly recommended that you have your garage periodically examined by an InterNACHI inspector. Resource: InterNACHI. Permission granted by InterNACHI https://www.nachi.org

Inspectors should understand electrical concepts in order to perform competent electrical inspections. This article seeks to clarify some elementary electrical terms and concepts that are sometimes confused. Basic Electrical Measurement Units Voltage , measured in volts (V), is the measure of potential energy per unit of charge. Using a “water-in-pipes” analogy, voltage in the electrical system is similar to water pressure in a plumbing system. High "pressure" or voltage in an electrical conductor means that the conductor is capable of delivering a lot of electricity to the user.Most household current is “pushed” at 120 or 240 volts, although these values are nominal, and considerable variation occurs. Most (but not all) modern electrical equipment can handle small voltage variations and differences without any problem. For example a 240V appliance can usually handle 216V fine. Sensitive electronic equipment may require the installation of a voltage stabilizer. Resistance , measured in Ohms (Ω), is the measure of the restriction of flow of electrical current through a material. All materials, except superconductors, have a resistance above zero. Metals have lots of free electrons; therefore, they have a low resistance, so they are used in wiring. In an electrical circuit, it is important to use cables that have a low enough resistance to adequately transfer the necessary current for the application. Thick wires are required for high-power applications because these wires have low resistance. Consider the incandescent light bulb. Thomas Edison and other early researchers discovered that if resistance in a wire is great enough, the wire heats up and glows and produces usable light. They used this knowledge to create the incandescent bulb, in which a current is applied to a highly resistant, ultra-thin filament, causing it to glow. Standard copper wires, unlike light bulb filament, have little electrical resistance. Yet, even copper wire can glow and start a fire when it is too resistant for the current running through it. Amps are a measure of the number of electrons flowing in the same direction along a conductor. Also known as the current, this value is proportional to the applied voltage and the resistance of the material. For example, if a light bulb is connected to a battery, the current flowing through it would be calculated using I = V / R, where I is the current, V is the voltage of the battery, and R is the resistance of the light bulb. This relationship is known as Ohms Law. You can see from this example that in order to double the current flowing in the bulb, you would need to double the voltage applied to it. Power is a measure of the overall amount of work being done in a system in relation to time (or energy used per second). In an electrical system, power can be calculated by using the formula P = VI. From this, you can see how the voltage and current in a system relate to the overall amount of power used. The unit of a Watt (W) is equivalent to joules per second; therefore, one Watt is equal to one joule per second. Alternating Current and Direct Current Alternating current (AC) is almost universally used for a home's electrical power. The amount of voltage applied to an AC circuit is constantly changing from zero to a maximum and back to zero in one direction, and then from zero to maximum and back to zero in the other direction. Because voltage is the pressure that causes current to flow, the current will also change from zero to maximum. Each complete change from zero to maximum to zero is called one hertz (Hz). Hertz is often abbreviated as "cps" (cycles-per-second) or Hz, which you will see marked on some electrical devices. Direct current is most commonly found in homes in the form of electrical energy stored in batteries. In a DC circuit, the amount of voltage and the direction of application are constant. The amount of voltage is determined by the type and size of the battery. The direction of current flow is also constant and, as in AC circuits, the amount of current flow is determined by the resistance. Batteries convert chemical energy to electrical energy. The chemical energy can be in wet form, as in a car battery, or in dry form, as in batteries used for flashlights, toys and portable music devices. Some batteries are designed to be recharged from an AC source. The voltage from all batteries, unless recharged, will gradually decrease. AC power can be converted to DC power for some uses in the home. The conversion is performed by a device called a rectifier or current converter. Which one is dangerous: voltage or current? A common adage goes, “It's not voltage that kills, it's current!" This is essentially correct. However, if voltage presented no danger, no one would ever print and display signs saying: "DANGER -- HIGH VOLTAGE!" It is electric current that burns tissue, freezes muscles, and fibrillates hearts. However, electric current doesn't just happen on its own -- there must be voltage available to motivate electrons to flow through a victim. High voltage is not inherently dangerous. Track your feet across carpet on a dry winter day and you will charge your body to several thousand volts. If you then touch metal, the resulting static discharge will have a voltage many times greater than a typical home’s electrical system, yet you will be perfectly safe because the current is not sustained. A person's body presents resistance to current. The following two variables partly determine whether an electric shock will cause bodily harm: individual body chemistry. Some people are highly sensitive to current, experiencing involuntary muscle contraction with shocks from static electricity. Others can draw large sparks from discharging static electricity and hardly feel it, much less experience a muscle spasm. where contact is made with the skin, such as from hand-to-hand, hand-to-foot, foot-to-foot, hand-to-elbow, etc. An electric shock that travels from one hand to the other will pass through the heart and potentially lead to cardiac arrest. The same current, if it travels through just one hand, will not be as dangerous. Also, contact with a wire by a sweaty hand or open wound will offer much less resistance to current than contact made by clean, dry skin. Sweat and blood are rich in salts and minerals, which make them excellent conductors. In summary, electrical terms such as volts, amps, ohms and watts describe distinct electrical phenomenon, although they are dependent on one another. Reference and permission granted by InterNACHI: https://www.nachi.org/

Grounding of electrical receptacles (which some laypeople refer to as outlets) is an important safety feature that has been required in new construction since 1962, as it minimizes the risk of electric shock and protects electrical equipment from damage. Modern, grounded 120-volt receptacles in the United States have a small, round ground slot centered below two vertical hot and neutral slots, and it provides an alternate path for electricity that may stray from an appliance. Older homes often have ungrounded, two-slot receptacles that are outdated and potentially dangerous. Homeowners sometimes attempt to perform the following dangerous modifications to ungrounded receptacles: the use of an adapter, also known as a "cheater plug." Adapters permit the ungrounded operation of appliances that are designed for grounded operation. These are a cheaper alternative to replacing ungrounded receptacles, but are less safe than properly grounding the connected appliance; replacing a two-slot receptacle with a three-slot receptacle without re-wiring the electrical system so that a path to ground is provided to the receptacle. While this measure may serve as a seemingly proper receptacle for three-pronged appliances, this “upgrade” is potentially more dangerous than the use of an adapter because the receptacle will appear to be grounded and future owners might never be aware that their system is not grounded. If a building still uses knob-and-tube wiring, it is likely than any three-slot receptacles are ungrounded. To be sure, InterNACHI inspectors may test suspicious receptacles for grounding; and removal of the ground pin from an appliance. This common procedure not only prevents grounding but also bypasses the appliance’s polarizing feature, since a de-pinned plug can be inserted into the receptacle upside-down. While homeowners may be made aware of the limitations of ungrounded electrical receptacles, upgrades are not necessarily required. Many small electrical appliances, such as alarm clocks and coffee makers, are two-pronged and are thus unaffected by a lack of grounding in the building’s electrical system. Upgrading the system will bring it closer to modern safety standards, however, and this may be accomplished in the following ways: Install three-slot receptacles and wire them so that they’re correctly grounded. Install ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs). These can be installed upstream or at the receptacle itself. GFCIs are an accepted replacement because they will protect against electric shocks even in the absence of grounding, but they may not protect the powered appliance. Also, GFCI-protected ungrounded receptacles may not work effectively with surge protectors. Ungrounded GFCI-protected receptacles should be identified with labels that come with the new receptacles that state: “No Equipment Ground.” Replace three-slot receptacles with two-slot receptacles. Two-slot receptacles correctly represent that the system is ungrounded, lessening the chance that they will be used improperly. Homeowners and non-qualified professionals should never attempt to modify a building’s electrical components. Misguided attempts to ground receptacles to a metallic water line or ground rod may be dangerous. InterNACHI inspectors may recommend that a qualified electrician evaluate electrical receptacles and wiring. In summary, adjustments should be made by qualified electricians -- not homeowners -- to an electrical system to upgrade ungrounded receptacles to meet modern safety standards and the requirements of today's typical household appliances Permission granted from Internachi. www.nachi.org

Bathroom ventilation systems are designed to exhaust odors and moist air to the home's exterior. Typical systems consist of a ceiling fan unit connected to a duct that terminates at the roof. Fan Function The fan may be controlled in one of several ways: Most are controlled by a conventional wall switch. A timer switch may be mounted on the wall. A wall-mounted humidistat can be pre-set to turn the fan on and off based on different levels of relative humidity. Newer fans may be very quiet but work just fine. Older fans may be very noisy or very quiet. If an older fan is quiet, it may not be working well. Inspectors can test for adequate fan airflow with a chemical smoke pencil or a powder puff bottle, but such tests exceed InterNACHI's Standards of Practice. Bathroom ventilation fans should be inspected for dust buildup that can impede air flow. Particles of moisture-laden animal dander and lint are attracted to the fan because of its static charge. Inspectors should comment on dirty fan covers. Ventilation systems should be installed in all bathrooms. This includes bathrooms with windows, since windows will not be opened during the winter in cold climates. Defects The following conditions indicate insufficient bathroom ventilation: moisture stains on walls or ceilings; corrosion of metal; visible mold on walls or ceilings; peeling paint or wallpaper; frost on windows; and high levels of humidity. The most common defect related to bathroom ventilation systems is improper termination of the duct. Vents must terminate at the home exterior. The most common improper terminations locations are: mid-level in the attic. These are easy to spot; beneath the insulation. You need to remember to look. The duct may terminate beneath the insulation or there may be no duct installed; and under attic vents. The duct must terminate at the home exterior, not just under it. Improperly terminated ventilation systems may appear to work fine from inside the bathroom, so the inspector may have to look in the attic or on the roof. Sometimes, poorly installed ducts will loosen or become disconnected at joints or connections. Ducts that leak or terminate in attics can cause problems from condensation. Warm, moist air will condense on cold attic framing, insulation and other materials. This condition has the potential to cause health and/or decay problems from mold, or damage to building materials, such as drywall. Moisture also reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation. Mold Perhaps the most serious consequence of an improper ventilation setup is the potential accumulation of mold in attics or crawlspaces. Mold may appear as a fuzzy, thread-like, cobwebby fungus, although it can never be identified with certainty without being lab-tested. Health problems caused by mold are related to high concentrations of spores in indoor air. Spores are like microscopic seeds, released by mold fungi when they reproduce. Every home has mold. Moisture levels of about 20% in materials will cause mold colonies to grow. Inhaling mold spores can cause health problems in those with asthma or allergies, and can cause serious or fatal fungal infections in those with lung disease or compromised immune systems. Mold is impossible to identify visually and must be tested by a lab in order to be confidently labeled. Inspectors should refrain from calling anything “mold” but should refer to anything that appears as mold as a material that “appears to be microbial growth.” Inspectors should include in their report, and in the inspection agreement signed by the client, a disclaimer clearly stating that the General Home Inspection is an inspection for safety and system defects, not a mold inspection. Decay, which is rot, is also caused by fungi. Incipient or early decay cannot be seen. By the time decay becomes visible, affected wood may have lost up to 50% of its strength. In order to grow, mold fungi require the following conditions to be present: oxygen; temperatures between approximately 45° F and 85° F; food. This includes a wider variety of materials found in homes; and moisture. If insufficient levels of any of these requirements exist, all mold growth will stop and fungi will go dormant. Most are difficult to actually kill. Even though mold growth may take place in the attic, mold spores can be sucked into the living areas of a residence by low air pressure. Low air pressure is usually created by the expulsion of household air from exhaust fans in bathrooms, dryers, kitchens and heating equipment. Improper Ventilation Ventilation ducts must be made from appropriate materials and oriented effectively in order to ensure that stale air is properly exhausted. Ventilation ducts must: terminate outdoors. Ducts should never terminate within the building envelope; contain a screen or louvered (angled) slats at its termination to prevent bird, rodent and insect entry; be as short and straight as possible and avoid turns. Longer ducts allow more time for vapor to condense and also force the exhaust fan to work harder; be insulated, especially in cooler climates. Cold ducts encourage condensation; protrude at least several inches from the roof; be equipped with a roof termination cap that protects the duct from the elements; and be installed according to the manufacturer's recommendations. The following tips are helpful, although not required. Ventilation ducts should: be made from inflexible metal, PVC, or other rigid material. Unlike dryer exhaust vents, they should not droop; and have smooth interiors. Ridges will encourage vapor to condense, allowing water to back-flow into the exhaust fan or leak through joints onto vulnerable surfaces. Above all else, a bathroom ventilation fan should be connected to a duct capable of venting water vapor and odors into the outdoors. Mold growth within the bathroom or attic is a clear indication of improper ventilation that must be corrected in order to avoid structural decay and respiratory health issues. Permission granted by InterNACHI. www.nachi.org.